Whenever Sir Mark Havelock-Allan visits Chennai, he makes it a point to call or message. Naturally, we meet at the same, rather unlikely place—the St. Mary’s Cemetery on the Island. Over time, this cemetery has become a regular meeting ground for us. Mark serves as the President of the British Association for Cemeteries in South Asia (BACSA), and so his interest is understandable. To him, therefore, this cemetery is sacred ground with deep historical value.
Origins of the Cemetery and Early Burials
The cemetery is attached to the Church of St. Mary’s in the Fort, built between 1678 and 1680. Indeed, it qualifies as the oldest Anglican place of worship east of the Suez Canal. However, English burials began even earlier. Colonials started dying soon after settlement. Initially, the burial ground was the Guava Garden, north of Fort St. George. Later, when St. Mary’s Church came up, it assumed control of the cemetery and burial practices in the area.
The Expansion and Shift to St. Mary’s Cemetery
Burials in those days required large monuments. The Hynmer Obelisk at the High Court gives a sense of their scale. Such structures soon posed a security risk near the Fort. Authorities closed the Guava Garden in the 1750s. They then shifted burials to the new cemetery on the Island. Workers later moved surviving stones from the Guava Garden, which became the Law College campus, to the yard around St. Mary’s Church for preservation.
The Colonial Legacy of St. Mary’s Cemetery
The Island Cemetery, also called the English Burial Ground, functioned between 1763 and the mid-1880s. Scottish and Catholic cemeteries lie nearby. The entrance features Gothic revival arches that resemble scenes from a horror film. Despite this, the cemetery remains one of my favourite haunts. My interest began with the film Billa (1980), starring Rajinikanth, which used this location. Since the 1990s, I have visited often, guided by J.J. Cotton’s 1905 work on tomb inscriptions.
Notable Graves in the Cemetery
The cemetery holds many figures from colonial Madras. These include Dr. James Anderson, a noted botanist, and James May, the first Superintendent of Madras Harbour Works. Governor Nicholas Morse also rests here. The novelist Laurence Hope, also known as Adela Florence Nicholson, lies buried alongside her decorated army officer husband. These last two graves form part of the Commonwealth War Graves, adding further historical importance to the cemetery.
Cemetery Maintenance Challenges
Maintaining the cemetery has always been difficult. It spreads across several acres but has only a single caretaker. Over time, anti-social elements misused the space. Vandals desecrated many tombs and stole marble and granite. The remaining structures began to decay. Thick undergrowth made locating graves difficult. At one point, workers had numbered the graves with small stones. Cotton used these for reference, but many markers have since disappeared or shifted.
Restoration Efforts at the Cemetery
In recent years, BACSA has stepped in to help. Mark and other members visit regularly and work with local agencies like Nilesh Thakkar’s Jeernodhar Conservators. Together, they have improved conditions. They raised the compound wall, created walkways, and restored several graves. They also introduced creative fundraising efforts. Descendants of those buried here now contribute to preservation. During this visit, Mark searched for Stephen Popham’s grave, but we could not locate it.
Unique Features Within the Cemetery
One grave that fascinates me belongs to James Anderson. Though trained as a surgeon, he gained fame as a botanist. Places like Anderson’s Gardens and Anderson’s Road in Nungambakkam honour him. His tomb features a tall canopy rising at least two stories. A tree has grown over it, blending nature with structure. Removing either would damage the other. The restoration work has preserved both, much like the famous Ta Prohm site in Cambodia.
The Future of the Cemetery
The cemetery now needs a steady source of income for upkeep. One solution lies in opening it to visitors, much like similar sites in England. Entry tickets and guided tours could generate funds. Audio guides could also enhance the experience. Nature lovers would appreciate its bird life. However, the church has reopened the grounds for fresh burials. This move may harm the long-term preservation of what remains an important heritage precinct.
This article appeared in The Hindu-https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/fresh-lease-of-life-for-a-place-of-the-dead-in-madras/article70779191.ece
My book, Chennai, A Biography can be ordered-https://sriramv.com/2021/12/27/how-to-buy-autographed-copies-of-chennai-a-biography-from-outstation/20.ece
