Last week, the newly elected CM, C Joseph Vijay, went walkabout at Fort St George. That is a good thing. He may well be the first Chief Minister in living memory to visit some of the monuments within the precinct. The itinerary, however, was predictable. It included the Church of St Mary’s and the Fort Museum. What was left out were the places he really needed to see.
Had he visited them, he might have begun thinking about what can be done to save this historic enclave from its steady decline.
The Neglect of Fort St George
The first problem facing the Fort is poor upkeep. Tonnes of rubbish lie behind its massive walls. These are the by-products of an administrative set-up that functions within the precinct. One does not have to search for them. Heaps of plastic, paper, and other discarded items are visible everywhere.
Walk closer to the walls and the situation appears worse. Go to the rear of the Fort and the moat presents an equally depressing sight. Weeds, stagnant water, and refuse line both sides. This should not be confused with the front moat, which is maintained regularly but remains bone dry.
Too Many Owners, Too Little Coordination
The next issue is the conflict arising from multiple ownership. As far as I know, the Fort has five owners. These are the ASI, the Legislative Assembly, the Tamil Nadu Government, the Army, and the Navy. Each guards its territory fiercely. Unfortunately, this often means protecting boundaries rather than the buildings themselves.
One example is what was mysteriously known as Clive’s Library, which came under the Navy. Years ago, a tree began growing out of the structure. Nobody appeared to notice it until the roots had taken a firm hold of the building.
Unlike the beanstalk in the fairy tale, the tree certainly did not grow overnight. Yet no action was taken. Eventually, the tree destroyed the structure completely.
The Condition of the Historic Barracks
If that is the Navy’s record, the Army fares only marginally better. To its credit, it has maintained certain buildings, such as the Embarkation Headquarters. However, the King’s Barracks, said to be the largest in the country, is close to collapse. The reason lies in a dispute between the Army and the ASI. The ASI wants the Army to hand over the building. The Army is reluctant.
Its hesitation stems from the ASI’s past record of denotifying protected structures and transferring them to the State Government. In several cases, these buildings were demolished and replaced with new constructions. As a result, the King’s Barracks today stands as a roofless and shabby shell.
ASI and Lost Heritage at Fort St George
The Army is not entirely wrong in its concerns. The ASI has done excellent work in restoring Clive’s House, now its headquarters, and the Church of St Mary’s. Yet the Fort also contains several examples where more could have been done.
Even in the 1980s, an entire section of historic buildings was denotified to make way for Namakkal Kavignar Maligai. That structure itself would never have been permitted in such a precinct had a proper heritage law existed.
Then came the neglect of Wellesley’s House and the Last House on Snob’s Alley. Both were allowed to collapse. Their protected status was later withdrawn.
The Forgotten Gates of Fort St George
The Fort’s historic gates present another concern. The Sea Gate and the more ornamental entrances are maintained reasonably well. St Thomas’ Gate, under Army supervision, is also in good condition.
The remaining gates, however, tell a different story. Wallajah Gate, St George’s Gate, and North Gate are in poor repair. The spaces beneath their arches serve as rubbish dumps. The structures themselves show severe signs of wear and neglect.
Government Buildings and Lost Character
The buildings under Government ownership, namely the Secretariat and Assembly, appear to be in good condition. Regular use and maintenance have ensured their survival.
However, a walk through the interiors reveals numerous insensitive additions and alterations. These changes have stripped the complex of much of its historic character. In short, the Fort is not what it ought to be.
A Plan for the Future of Fort St George
The new Government needs to address the issue of ownership. If that proves impossible, it should at least create a committee that includes all stakeholders. Such a body could oversee preservation and maintenance across the precinct.
The Fort also needs better documentation. Important locations should have proper signage explaining their history. Access must become easier. Ideally, visitors should be allowed entry from dawn to dusk. The current Government timings are a deterrent, especially given Chennai’s climate.
Finally, why not introduce a sound-and-light show on Parade Square? Many forts across India already offer this attraction. There is no reason why Fort St George should not do the same.
This article appeared in The Hindu-https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/what-tamil-nadu-cm-vijay-really-needs-to-see-at-fort-st-george/article71027525.ece
My book, Chennai, A Biography can be ordered-https://sriramv.com/2021/12/27/how-to-buy-autographed-copies-of-chennai-a-biography-from-outstation/20.ece
Very nice article with so much of pertinent information. Wish and pray this article is read by people who matter to give atleast a thought for the History of this oldest city to restore Fort St George as suggested by you. Good Luck.