Today, people describe Khader Nawaz Khan Road as a downtown hub. It is a lively space filled with fashionable eateries and shops. However, just thirty years ago, KNK as it is now called was very different. It was a quiet residential street lined with bungalows on both sides.
This contrast came back vividly as I read From Madras to Chennai, and some of life in between (2QT Publishing, 2025) by Fran Forsyth. The author spent the first eight years of her life in Madras during the 1950s and 1960s.
Why Mid-Century Chennai Matters
What drew my attention most was the period she describes. Anyone interested in the history of Indian cities knows that the first four decades after Independence are poorly documented. Records from this time are scarce.
Photographs are even harder to find. In fact, a former corporate head once told me that cameras were rare—and film was even rarer. As a result, any material from the period between 1947 and the 1990s becomes especially valuable.
Industrial Beginnings Around Khader Nawaz Khan Road
Fran Forsyth’s father, BA Forsyth, belonged to a group of expatriate executives who came to India during the early phase of industrialization. Most of them came from the United Kingdom. At the time, India functioned largely as a market for British goods. Therefore, the country had to build its industries almost from scratch. Collaborations became essential. Given its long connection with India, the UK became the natural source of technology. The Murugappa Group played a key role in this phase. One of its early ventures involved manufacturing cycles in collaboration with Tube Investments of the UK.
I will not go into the later history of this venture, as it is well known. Those interested can refer to S Muthiah’s Looking Back from Moulmein: A Biography of AMM Arunachalam.
Expat Life and Departure from Chennai
Public records show that BA Forsyth worked for many years with Tube Products of India (TPI). By 1964, he had become Works Director. However, by the late 1960s, many expatriate executives began to leave India.
They feared the impact of socialistic policies. At the same time, concerns grew about foreign exchange shortages and possible restrictions on repatriating savings. As a result, Forsyth and his family also left. Even so, Madras remained Fran Forsyth’s spiritual home. She continued to return over the years to relive her memories. At least until 2002–2003, some of those memories still had physical markers.
Remembering Residential KNK Road in Chennai
For instance, the house where she lived on KNK Road still stood. It featured an art deco style and a small front lawn. Even more interesting was the plot next door. During the rains, it would fill with water. Soon, it became a convenient pool for neighbourhood buffaloes.
Today, it is hard to imagine such a scene on KNK Road. Fran also recalls that the street had very few cars. There was plenty of space to walk. In contrast, recent pedestrianisation efforts on the same road have created considerable chaos.
Social Life in Old Chennai
The book offers rich glimpses of upper-class life in Madras during the 1950s and 1960s. For example, there are accounts of visits to the Madras Club. One particularly touching moment stands out. When the author returned to Chennai in 2003, she stayed at the club and visited its library. There, she found two books her mother had once borrowed.
On opening them, she discovered her mother’s signature on the preserved borrowing cards. The book also describes picnics at Sadras. Even today, the place remains relatively quiet, though better maintained. Shopping at Spencer’s was another essential activity. Train journeys to Kodaikanal and stays at the hill station also feature prominently. And then, there was Ayah.
The Ayah in Chennai’s Colonial and Post-Colonial Life
Very few books explore the world of the Ayah during colonial times. Yet, they formed an integral part of the Raj ecosystem. This role continued into expatriate life even after 1947. Most Ayahs came from Dalit and Christian backgrounds. Their primary responsibility was to care for the “Baba Log” the children of expatriate families.
Despite differences in language, colour, and status, strong emotional bonds often developed. In fact, many children remembered their Ayahs with greater affection than their own parents. Historical accounts of the 1857 uprising even mention Ayahs protecting children. Some shielded them with their own bodies in the face of violence. Fran’s Ayah may not have been heroic in that sense. However, her kindness and care earned her a permanent place in the author’s memory.
Nostalgia and Multiple Perspectives
Today, some may dismiss the book as nostalgia rooted in an old-world mindset. However, it gains value when we recognise that multiple perspectives can coexist.
This article appeared in The Hindu-https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/a-trip-down-chennai-khader-nawaz-khan-road-residential-past/article70860497.ece
My book, Chennai, A Biography can be ordered-https://sriramv.com/2021/12/27/how-to-buy-autographed-copies-of-chennai-a-biography-from-outstation/20.ece
Nice post. Wonder if KNK Road has any old bungalow left.