The Ramayana’s links with Sri Lanka are well-known across India. Not so celebrated, however, is the connection that Tevaram — a collection of devotional hymns to Shiva — has with that country. Of the 275 Padal Petra Sthalams revered in the Tevaram, the collective name for the works of Appar, Sambandar and Sundarar, two are in Sri Lanka. A visit to these places, with those verses at hand, makes for a delightful blend of devotion and history.
The Island’s Chain of Shrines, two with Tevaram
Given that Sri Lanka was, and remains, a Buddhist stronghold, it’s not surprising that Hindu shrines came up along the periphery, practically hugging the coast. Five temples dedicated to Shiva are particularly sacred. These Pancha Iswarams — as they are called seem to form a protective chain around the island. Beginning from the north and proceeding clockwise, they are: Naguleswaram in Jaffna, Koneswaram at Trincomalee in the northeast , Tondeswaram in the south, Munneswaram on the west , Ketheeswaram in Mannar in the northwest Of these, Koneswaram and Ketheeswaram are the Padal Petra Sthalams.
Temples that Withstood Time and Turmoil
Both temples share a long and intertwined history — mythical origins, Tevaram hymns, expansion under the Cholas and later Sri Lankan kings, destruction by the Portuguese in the 17th century, and finally, reconstruction in the 19th century under Arumuga Navalar, the great Saiva Agama scholar. Recent history too has not been kind to these temples, which suffered during the civil war. Yet today, they are witnessing a revival — rebuilt and thronged by devoted, disciplined worshippers.
Koneswaram: The Southern Kailasam in Tevaram
Koneswaram is the more picturesque of the two, perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the sea. Once known as Dakshina Kailasam, it was famed for its now-vanished thousand-pillared hall and linked to the Gokarnas of India — sacred spots where Shiva was worshipped by a cow carrying holy water in its ear.In his Tevaram hymns, Sambandar describes this place as Konamalai. One of his verses, now lost, mentions how the sea deposits fragrant wood, gold, shells, and gems on its shores. He also writes of the mighty waves, the moisture-laden air, and most importantly, a sunai or natural spring — the Papanasam spring, still venerated today.
Koneswaram in Sambandar’s Tevaram
Sri Lanka is rightly called the Emerald Isle, and its lush greenery is the first thing that greets you. Sambandar, too, seems to have noticed this. At Koneswaram, he says, the Lord delights amidst groves of malli, madhavi, vengai, punnai, serunti, champakam, and mullai. Standing on the cliff where water tumbles into the sea, you can’t help but feel the thrill — that you are where Sambandar once stood, watching the same waves and breathing the same sea air he so vividly described.
Echoes of Arunagirinathar
It’s well known that Arunagirinathar sang Tiruppugazh verses on Muruga at Kathirkamam in Sri Lanka. Interestingly, he seems to have visited Koneswaram too.His hymn beginning with Vilaikku Meni is dedicated to Muruga of the six-tiered gopuram at Tirukkonamalai. Though no other details survive, it’s possible that such a tower once stood there.
Traces of the Past Beneath the Sea
Though the present-day temple is a reconstruction, Koneswaram still retains a precious link to its ancient past — a Somaskanda icon from the Chola period, discovered embedded in the sea and rescued.Many such underwater findings owe thanks to the famed sci-fi writer Sir Arthur C. Clarke, who was also an avid deep-sea diver and lived in Sri Lanka for decades.
Ketheeswaram and the Port of Mathottam in Tevaram
Sambandar likely reached Konamalai by sea from the mainland. Another busy ancient port was Mahathitta, in present-day Mannar — known in Tamil as Mathottam. This was where great seafaring nations once came to trade.
The ancient Shiva temple here, later expanded by the Cholas, is celebrated in the Tevaram of Sundarar. In eight of his ten verses, he mentions the Palali River (Pali Aru), which flows through Mullaithivu and Mannar before reaching the Palk Bay. His verses lovingly describe the natural beauty — bees hovering among flowers, mango trees laden with fruit, and ships anchored at the port.
The Tevaram and the Enduring Power of Faith
Though not as dramatic as Konamalai, Ketheeswaram is equally charming. In recent years, the Indian government has supported its restoration. A unique addition is the inclusion of iconographic panels of Shiva around the temple’s periphery. The Tevaram and Tiruppugazh verses together remind us of the deep spiritual link between India and Sri Lanka — a connection that has survived conquest, colonization, and conflict.
The repeated resurrection of these shrines stands as a testament to one thing — the triumph of faith over adversity.
This article appeared in The Hindu–https://www.thehindu.com/society/history-and-culture/the-tevaram-trail-discovering-shaivite-heritage-in-sri-lanka/article70188864.ece
My book, Chennai, A Biography can be ordered–http://- https://sriramv.com/2021/12/27/how-to-buy-autographed-copies-of-chennai-a-biography-from-outstation/
Excellent Sriram. Fortunate to have visited the places with you. Disciplined worshippers – totally agree with you and triumph of faith over adversity – (my take is how did it occur to Tamil Saints to compose such versus). Hats Off to you for bringing out the essence of the place in your own unique style. Best Wishes.