Last week, I went to George Town after a considerable hiatus. Walking there is always a challenge — but for me, it becomes even more so, as practically every nook and cranny is a lesson in history. Sadly, the area is also a perfect instance of how not to maintain a true heritage precinct. For all the talk about looking to Singapore as a role model, in my view, it is Galle in Sri Lanka or George Town in Malaysia that we should emulate both show what can be done with our own George Town, if only we cared enough. The latest casualty seems to be the statue of King George V.
George Town as a Haven of Violations
I was much saddened to see that many familiar landmarks have vanished, replaced by tasteless commercial structures and high-rises in an area that can scarcely bear more congestion. Who, I wonder, grants permission for such construction? But then, as a former Commissioner of the Greater Chennai Corporation once told the High Court of Madras, 90 per cent of buildings in George Town violate some regulation or the other. So perhaps, nobody is really in charge.
The King George and His Triangle at George Town
For over a century, the rear of the Flower Bazaar Police Station had a triangular space with a statue of King George V at its center. The statue was funded by the Govinddoss Chaturbhujadoss family — wealthy Gujarati magnates of George Town and financiers of the Buckingham and Carnatic Mills begun in the 1860s. The sponsor was Kushaldoss Chaturbhujadoss, who presented the statue “on behalf of the citizens of Madras.” The sculptor, Sir Bertram Mackennal an Australian by origin was well-known for his works depicting King George V, including statues, stamps, and coinage.
King George as a Symbol of Empire
The statue was erected in 1913 to commemorate the coronation of King George V at the Delhi Durbar in 1911, and also to mark the renaming of Black Town to George Town in 1905, following the Prince of Wales’ visit to Madras. A deputation of citizens had waited upon the Prince and requested that the area bear his name — and thus, the colonial monarch found his place in the city’s geography.
King George Statue Smothered by Shops
Now, I am not particularly sentimental about statues commemorating colonial rulers. But if we have decided to retain one, the least we can do is give it some space to breathe. For years, the statue stood open, though its pedestal had been put to some less-than-dignified uses. But in recent months, some bright spark in the Corporation decided to put up a series of shops all around the statue.
These new constructions — inaugurated with a plaque but never allotted — are now shuttered and deserted. The alleys between them have become rubbish dumps and open latrines, filling the air with an unbearable stench.
The Hawkers’ Compromise
This poorly designed warren of stalls was supposedly created for hawkers evicted from the NSC Bose Road footpaths — a battle that has raged since the 1950s, with the late Traffic Ramaswami being the most famous crusader. But instead of solving the problem, the new complex has managed to do something else entirely: hide old King George from sight.
A brave foray into those narrow lanes revealed the statue hemmed in on all sides, the King Emperor craning his neck as if trying to get a glimpse of the outside world.
The Empire’s Final Sunset
And so, there stands King George — unseen, unsung, and surrounded by decay. The once-proud symbol of empire now looks forlorn, imprisoned behind rows of empty shops and filth. The irony is unmistakable.
The sun has finally set on the British Empire — not on a battlefield or through revolution, but in a maze of municipal neglect.
This article appeared in The Hindu–https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/searching-for-george-in-chennais-george-town/article70136890.ece
My book, Chennai, A Biography can be ordered–http://- https://sriramv.com/2021/12/27/how-to-buy-autographed-copies-of-chennai-a-biography-from-outstation/
