The Hindu’s Made of Chennai Run was Heldon September 8. The route was around the Island, which now has the Cooum ‘flowing’ all around it. A week earlier it was the rather muted Formula 4 motor race, which also had its track around the Island. Perhaps for the first time in my life, I ran, in the 5k race. As I huffed and puffed, I could not help reflecting on how the Island is an underrated and yet integral part of Chennai.
Not Always An Island
It was not always an island – in the 17th century, the Cooum curved around a part of it and reached the sea. Another, the Elambore or North River, which flowed from north to south, and which is today part of the Buckingham Canal, suddenly took a turn towards the east a few hundred yards to the north of the Cooum and flowed into the sea. A cut was made, probably to equalise flood levels between the two, and we had an island.
Putting the Island to Many Uses
The English put it to good use. They initially made salt on it and later had the Company’s Garden there. This was where they repaired to on weekends and also ceremonial occasions in the 18th century. A theatre was built and named the Playhouse, which survived till the 1780s. Bridges were constructed to enable easy access to the Island from the Fort and the city. And those among the colonials who died in service made their way to cemeteries here. The St Mary’s Cemetery on the Island is attached to St Mary’s in the Fort. There is a Scottish cemetery and once there was even an Armenian burial ground here. Today with the overbridge connecting the Island to Central, much of the layout of the place is lost.
A Green Island
But what there is, is worth preserving. The Army occupies a large chunk of the Island and it also has a club there. The Gymkhana stands on army land on the Island. And there is Sir Thomas Munro watching over the space. There is also the handsome War Memorial. It is however the greenery that is most appealing. We may not be sure of what flows in the Cooum but whatever it is, the Island is verdant.
The Island Grounds
An important parcel on the Island is what was known as Fairgrounds and is now referred to as Island Grounds. This was where many exhibitions and fairs happened, before the venue shifted to Anna Nagar in the 1970s and later, in the 1990s to Nandambakkam. Even today though, the fairs that appeal to a mass public are held here, and see good attendance. In my view it is its openness and lack of any concrete structure that makes it very valuable. Sport events too, such as the Davis Cup matches were held here, but always in makeshift structures.
Building Over The Island
It is therefore a pity that Island Grounds is now being eyed to ‘temporarily’ house the Broadway Bus Terminus even while the latter makes way for a wholly unnecessary so-called multimodal hub rising to 18 floors. Last year there was an announcement that an open-air theatre would be built on 30 acres of the Island. This is superfluous as the city already has a massive and totally unused open-air theatre in the Music College in Adyar.
Rajaji on The Island
In 1953, speaking at a United India Insurance event, Rajaji, then CM of Madras, hoped that “the Island Grounds will not be seized and built upon.” He called on the people to preserve open spaces such as the Island. Will the Government, which professes to hold Rajaji in great reverence remember his advice?
This article appeared in The Hindu dated September 11 and can be read here
My book, Chennai A Biography can be ordered here